The Communal Experience: Ramadan Begins

When I tried to fast in Zambia, big epic failures occurred. Staring at my co-workers while they ate piles of white bread and mangos didn’t lend itself to keeping my sanity throughout the long, hot and empty afternoon. By the end of the day, I found myself wondering about my motives and unsure that this spiritual discipline was for me.

On the flipside, fasting with 45 Moroccan kids, several Moroccan counsellors and five very hungry PCVs (not to mention the rest of the country), allows you to rely on others and focus your energy on the real purpose of Ramadan. Team Ramses (Earth, Air, Fire, Water, Heart!) bound together to beat the first few days of Ramadan. Afternoon walks, a Star Wars Marathon and strict rules about when food could be mentioned all aided in our success. We decided that anything said between the hours of 12pm and 7:45pm, was off the record and that we “hated the hunger, not each other.” Did we complain when we woke up for the 3:30am meal? Yes. Did we make pointless conversation directly before the cannon went off? Totally. Did we struggle and succeed together? Absolutely.

Here is a brief itinerary of the first few days, typically the most challenging in a month.

3:30am : Good Morning! It’s time to eat! Bags of bread, sugary yogurt, fake cheese and possibly fruit have been delivered to our room. We slowly roll out of our individual dorm beds and wander onto our communal bed zone (pictures to come). Blake lightly taps his head for a few minutes before speaking, Leah starts working on her water, I babble incessantly and make bad jokes, Cait watches in amusement and Zaana reminds us that she didn’t want to fast in the first place.

4am- Fajr Prayer, pretty sure I fall asleep partway through this one...regardless I try to focus on my spiritual journey and ask God to help me fast successfully and easily throughout the day. 


5:30am: Sunrise, the official fast begins.

10am: Feels too early to wake up, but the clapping has begun.

11am-12:30pm : Zoned out English classes on the side of both the teachers and students. We found group activities kept their attention, not much else. I nearly passed out trying to do the “Peel Bananas” song and “Boom Chicka Boom” in a row.

12:30pm- Dhuhr Prayer, currently my bible study time and reflection on God’s word.

1pm- 4:30pm: Free time! This normally included a trip to the Peace Corps office, swimming in the pool at the American school, napping, slow walks, long naps, meditation, etc.

4:30pm: Asr Prayer – This is a tough one. My body feels like it has atrophied by this point of the day. This prayer goes between listening to praise songs and asking God to look after friends, family.

5pm-7:15pm: Star Wars Marathon! We cloister ourselves onto the communal bed, safely away from other humans and food. Hangriness has taken over our brains. If someone sneezes, I may assault them. It’s best to stay quiet and rest.

7:15pm: (technically 30 minutes before Maghrib prayer). I spend this time in prayer focusing on the least of these; those who struggle with this hunger everyday and won’t get to “break” their fast.


7:45pm: The cannon goes off! The call to prayer begins for the Maghrib (the official signal that the sun has set). It's time to feast! We all take our first date and a sip of milk before digging into harira, chebakia, juice, hard-boiled eggs, fried bread and an assortment of other goodies. God is good and we are starving.


8:15-9:15pm: Digestion. Seriously, we all just sit.


9:15pm: Isha Prayer; I normally sing this one. It's all about Thanksgiving and Praise to God at this point in the day!


9:30pm-12am: Walks around the old Medina, visiting the Marina, talent shows with the kids, eating McFlurries at McDonalds and general happiness. It feels so good to finally be full.


12:30am: More food? Yes please! In Morocco, this is typically the biggest meal of Ramadan. I'm not a fan of the tradition, but am still capable of eating an entire veggie pizza directly before heading to bed.


1am: Time for bed! We are full, exhausted and aware that breakfast comes in two hours. The cycle continues...


Work at the Dar Talib, my second camp of the summer, has come to an end and the first four days of Ramadan are complete. Stay tuned for the rest of Ramadan musings in El Jadida, the adventure continues!

Pre-Ramadan Musings

I miss church. Every other time I’ve spent a considerable amount of time abroad, it’s been in a traditionally Catholic or Christian country. Whether or not I agreed with the country’s individual practice of religion, there was usually some Baptist church, Anglican or Catholic Cathedral where I could rest in the presence of God. After my mixed feelings of practicing state-endorsed Christianity in Zambia, it was a welcome change to land in a country where I don’t feel frustrated by the message preached by my fellow Christians.

Welcome to my new challenge: Islam and Morocco; the two are inseperable. There is no way to engage with the language, the people or the greater community without this basic understanding. The most essential phrases of Darija include: “the Peace of Allah be with you,”  “thanks be to Allah” and “Allah bless your parents” to name a few. Likewise, a volunteer cannot hope to integrate into their local community without numerous conversations about conversion, fasting and prayer. Entering into discussion is an open invitation to be questioned about your belief system and your reasons for not already being a Muslim.

As a Christian, I struggle with the never-ending demands that I submit to the will of Allah. Politely replying that “there is no compulsion in religion” or “you have your religion and I have mine” may do the trick, but it also leaves me feeling that I’ve given an incomplete answer. It’s frustrating that the societal and organizational restraints leave me feeling that the exchange is decidedly one-sided.

Ramadan begins in a few days. I’ve been looking forward to this time of fasting, prayer and reflection for months, but as it draws near I’m overcome by anxiety and panic. Will I be overwhelmed by the hangriness and unable to keep the fast? Will I be able to successfully teach English or speak Darija when I haven’t eaten for 12 hours? Will I have enough energy to focus on my spiritual journey and engage with fellow PCVs as they struggle in theirs? What if I can’t find the words to commune with God five times per day?

Despite my own fears, insecurities and longings, I’ve decided to engage culturally and spiritually with the Moroccan people and join the fast. I don’t know what the next month holds, but I know Who holds it.

(Originally written July 19)